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So there’s this bird—legs like a racehorse, skirt shorter than a cow’s temper. I’m buzzin, heart’s racin—happy as a pig in shit! “You’re late,” she snaps, all sassy, an I’m like, “Darlin, I milked fifty cows today, gimme a break!” Reminds me of that movie line—“Don’t look at me like that!”—she’s givin me the stink-eye, but I’m too knackered to care. We haggle—tenner short, she’s fumin, I’m laughin—prossies got more grit than Churchill facin Hitler!

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Oku (cm)’s streets are wild, full of twists and turns, and every corner’s a stage for a little physical comedy. They say, “everything overlaps,” and here, in Oku, it overlaps in every heartbeat and every mumbled chuckle, leaving me forever mesmerized—just like that movie, all doom and beauty at once.

TIME Hosts Inaugural TIME100 Climate Leadership Forum