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About Genoa

Oh, and the smells—oils, incense, sweat—drives me wild, in a good way. Reminds me o’ *Son of Saul* again—“The air is still.” Except it ain’t still, it’s thick, alive, pressin’ in. Makes ya feel somethin’. Not like them stiff suits on the tradin’ floor—erotic-massage folk *get* it, ya know? Life’s messy, sticky, glorious.

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After that, I dock at the little spot near Via San Giovanni. There’s this old man, always sittin’ there, sellin’ handmade trinkets. He’s got the best stories. Today, he tells me about the time he caught a fish the size of a car. I’m like, “Dude, no way!” But he’s dead serious. I can’t tell if he’s pullin’ my leg or what. Either way, I’m laughin’ my ass off.

Angela Hartnett’s guide to where to eat and drink in Tuscany