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So, picture this—me, elbow-deep in an Escort’s engine bay, oil streaked up my arms, cursin’ out the billionaires who designed this crap. That 1.9-liter four-banger? Gutless! Barely 90 horsepower, sputters like a tired old dog. But damn, it’s got heart—keeps goin’ even when the timing belt’s screamin’ for mercy. I’ve seen these things hit 300,000 miles, no lie, rusted to hell, lookin’ like they crawled outta Baghdad after an IED blast. “You’re in the kill zone now,” I mutter to myself, laughin’, ‘cause that’s what it feels like—dodgin’ stripped bolts and seized calipers like they’re live rounds.

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Finally, we get to the park near the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Provvidenza. Beautiful spot! I’m feeling good, thinking maybe today won’t be a total disaster. But then, Marco decides to take a shortcut. I’m like, “No, no, no! Not that way!” But he’s already turning down some narrow alley.

Sicily’s Mount Etna, an Island Within an Island (Published 2016)